Donnie Tantoco turns pandemic idea into tribute to parents

A few Saturdays ago, PR maven Susan Joven invited me and Leo Espinosa for a leisurely lunch at Rico’s Café, nestled within the serene grounds of the Sta. Elena Golf and Country Club (SEGACC) in Sta. Rosa, Laguna. We rode in Susan’s van, and the drive of less than an hour from the Ortigas area was a perfect prelude to a memorable afternoon.

Because of the amusing stories and uncontainable laughter that marked the brief drive, we were famished when we got to Sta. Rosa. Upon our arrival at Rico’s Café, we were warmly greeted by Tricia Vistan, the ever-gracious customer relations director, who led us to our reserved table. Thankfully, Susan had the foresight to book in advance. The café was busy and buzzing with lots of weekend diners. As we settled in, we were soon joined by a familiar face: Donnie Tantoco. It had been years since I last saw him, yet he hadn’t aged a day — save for slightly longer hair and, quite surprisingly, the proud glow of a doting grandfather to three.

The show-stopping Rico’s Beef Puchero.

Naturally, I was curious. Donnie is best known as a visionary retail entrepreneur from the illustrious Tantoco clan — the family behind Rustan’s and Stores Specialists Inc. (SSI). What brought him here to the heart of Sta. Elena?

As it turns out, Donnie’s journey with SEGACC began during the height of the COVID pandemic in May 2020. Three months into the lockdown, when it had been many weeks since he saw his parents, Rico and Nena Tantoco, Donnie received a call from his father, who asked him for ideas about developing SEGACC. Inspired by the serendipitous timing of the call, Donnie decided it was the perfect opportunity and time to create a tribute to his parents — a living legacy while they are still around to see it.

He asked his dad for a three-hectare plot by the man-made lake within the property and began transforming it into what is now Nena’s Sanctuary — a lush, tranquil space that embodies the Tantoco family values of compassion, resilience and a deep commitment to people. “In tough times, no one gets laid off,” Donnie shared, recalling one of his dad’s many philosophies “to take care of employees like family.”

Here’s another unique Rico Tantoco philosophy: rather than design landscapes, create habitats. With this principle guiding him, Donnie developed the sanctuary. With its thriving flora and fauna, it has since become a haven not just for humans but for wildlife too, including migratory birds (around 3,000 species) and aquatic life. The space now includes Rico’s Café and an adjoining Events Place.

The Events Place, which opened in May 2023, was not part of the original plan. “I was hesitant to keep inventory,” Donnie admitted, “so we built something that could be rented for celebrations instead.” With a 350-seat capacity, the venue is a sought-after location for intimate yet grand occasions.

By November 2024, Rico’s Café officially opened its doors. The interiors evoke nostalgia — a vivid homage to Donnie’s father in his 30s. From vintage hanging lamps salvaged from Rico’s old den to modern touches like a yellow brick wall and winding staircase envisioned by Donnie’s wife, Crickett, the café artfully balances legacy and lifestyle. Designed with families in mind, it offers a unique blend of contemporary comforts in a nature-immersed setting.

And the vision doesn’t stop there. Donnie and his sister Katrina are now working on building a mid-rise boutique hotel complete with a wellness and spa center. With 40 rooms and select villas, they hope to open the doors to a full eco-luxury retreat within the next three years.

Of course, our visit would not have been complete without diving into the café’s culinary offerings. Susan, Leo and I started with the Finopino bread basket, which is an inventive spread of braided pandesal, mini croissant-shaped pandecoco and Spanish bread, served with dried fish and squid butter, plus Sariaya longganisa pâté. A fresh pako salad complemented the platter perfectly. For drinks, I was recommended the house-made tamarind juice that became my instant favorite.

For the main course, we indulged in pinakbet, the Marina Coco Vino Medley — a fragrant coconut wine broth with a mix of fresh seafood — and the show-stopping Rico’s Beef Puchero. A generous beef shank stewed with saba bananas, potatoes, chorizo, chickpeas, bok choy and cabbage in a rich tomato sauce — it was soulful and utterly divine.

Dessert was nothing short of spectacular. We shared three signature creations: the Baked Brazo de Mercedes, pillowy and decadent; the Tiramisuman, a delightful fusion of tiramisu and suman, layered with kapeng barako-soaked broas and mascarpone, then wrapped in banana leaf; and the Binignit Panna Cotta, a unique take on the classic, with layers of ube, camote, gabi, saba, sago and langka, topped with bilo-bilo and banana chips, and finished with a pour of warm ube cream. Each dessert was a revelation — inventive, nostalgic and completely indulgent.

In all, our lunch at Rico’s Café was more than a culinary journey — it was a window into a family’s heartfelt legacy, their vision for mindful living and a reaffirmation that the best stories are often shared over good food and even better company.