A Luxe Scottish Whisky Tour Where you BYOD (Bring Your Own Dog)

LONDON’S KINGS CROSS STATION draws visitors to platform 9¾ of Hogwarts Express fame, but platform 14 whisks you away to another magical world—Edinburgh and the whisky-lover’s paradise of the Scottish Highlands.  

On board sleek new trains from LNER, four hours in first class flies by as you’re served complimentary snacks—Hello, fudge! —and drinks in your seat, all while watching the Great British countryside whizz by in a blur of green. Toffee, our Hong Kong rescue, is well experienced in sustainable train travel and settles happily under the seat, making friends the length of the country. Did someone say #tlpets? 

In Edinburgh, Gleneagles Townhouse is a 250-year-old beauty, the former HQ of the Bank of Scotland turned exclusive luxury hotel featuring a restaurant called The Spence. Prepare to be amazed by intricate stonework and an extraordinary glass dome, as well as plates celebrating some of the finest produce north of the border. Incredible Scottish langoustines are even more deliciously maritime thanks to a seaweed crumb, while cannon of lamb is bathed in a sensational jus. Then just say “Millionaire Shortbread Éclair.” Trust us. 

The lure of Highland single malts is strong, however, so we board another train for the gently winding three-hour journey up to Inverness. Passing through picture-perfect landscapes of meandering rivers, fields of barley, mountains clad in purple heather and pine forests, you quickly appreciate how Scotland’s pristine environment inspires and defines whisky. 

Nowhere is that clearer than at the next stop on our whisky tour, the sublime coastal escape of Glenmorangie House, a 17th-century house brilliantly reimagined as an exclusive boutique property of just six bedrooms and three cottages. Our home of Cask Cottage was a joy, from the fragrant local wildflowers outside to furniture crafted from repurposed casks of Madeira.  

Toffee was also welcomed in style with a cozy bed, treats and a squeaky giraffe toy. Giraffes are a big theme and Glenmorangie even has a partnership with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation. Why? The necks of Glenmorangie Distillery’s copper stills—where distillation and condensation happen, to help define a whisky’s magic and character—are as slender and tall as a giraffe.  

At Glenmorangie House, life is a brilliant combination of relaxing, learning and indulging. After meals at the communal dining room table, beautifully crafted from local produce by Head Chef John Wilson, a short walk through fields of gently swaying barley takes you to the coastline where seals loll on rocks and dolphins frolic. Toffee duly races up sand dunes and through rock pools in the pristine environment, where two-legged visitors are a rarity. 

Scotch malt whisky is crafted from just spring water, malted barley and yeast, then aged in wooden barrels, but a guided tour of Glenmorangie Distillery, which opened in 1847, lets you learn how the magic really happens. A mixology class, pre-dinner drams and cocktails back at the House all show its thrilling versatility, such as The Original with notes of vanilla and peach, while The Nectar tastes like a walk through a boulangerie carrying an oven-fresh brioche. Or maybe that’s partly the whisky talking. Either way, finish the day in this magnificent retreat al fresco, with some of the world’s finest and clearest stargazing. 

Next to Speyside, a legendary whisky-producing region home to more than 50 distilleries including another icon, The Macallan. The Macallan House in Singapore and recently Hong Kong help ensure that the brand is beloved across Asia, but a chance to visit the mothership of The Macallan Estate is one that any whisky \aficionado would leap at. 

A must on any whisky tour, the 485-acre estate sits in glorious rolling countryside overlooking the banks of The Spey. At its heart is Easter Elchies House, a traditional Highland manor dating from 1700 which adorns bottles of The Macallan to this day. Tours of the estate are understandably limited and very sought-after, while the jaw-dropping $185 million distillery is entirely covered in grass and ingeniously hidden in the hillside, giving distinct Middle Earth feels. Visitors quickly learn why, as sustainability clearly underpins the passion and craft in every bottle. 

Tour highlights include one bottle which sold for $3 million, among hundreds of stratospherically valuable drops, while The Macallan Bar is heaven, whether sipping neat or on carefully crafted cocktails. Their Boutique is hallowed ground—yes, that really is Stella McCartney’s bespoke Macallan gift range—then there’s an excellent restaurant in the form of Elchies Brasserie. Thrillingly, however, they’re set to welcome the legendary Roca Brothers—twice winners of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants—with a brand-new dining experience, their first UK restaurant, opening later this year. Get those reservations in early. 

Seriously VIP guests have the chance to stay on site, but nearby Craigellachie Hotel which dates back to 1703 is the perfect base for everyone else. Proudly dog-friendly, with 26 gorgeous suites, it too overlooks The Spey and offers unforgettable riverside walks to charming nearby towns like Aberlour. Its reputation as one of the world’s finest homes for whisky lovers is enhanced by their Quaich Bar, offering more than 1,000 single malts, while The Highlander, a whisky pub that has been owned for 20 years by a Kyoto native, Tatsuya Minagawa, is just a 60-second walk away. 

While summer in Scotland can often feel theoretical, when the sun does shine in blue skies, there are few prettier places on earth. That was certainly the feeling in Braemar, the final stop on this whisky tour and home to one of Scotland’s—indeed, the entire UK’s—finest places to stay, The Fife Arms. 

The picturesque village is in the heart of the Highlands, a remote spot in the Dee Valley amidst astonishing mountain landscapes, yet home to a large hotel since the 19th century. That’s thanks to Queen Victoria who purchased nearby Balmoral Castle, subsequently ensuring a steady flow of visitors. To this day, few locations are as intimately connected to the British royal family. 

The Fife Arms’ owners since 2015, Iwan and Manuela Wirth, are co-founders of the acclaimed global gallery Hauser & Wirth, so if you look up at breakfast and think you’ve spotted a Picasso, the whisky isn’t to blame. It really is a Picasso. They have also ensured that each of the exquisite rooms is unique, with a personality that tells a story of Braemar and beyond through antiques, art, books and other thoughtful touches. The whole place is innately dog-friendly—the lovable house Lab called Brodie welcomes everyone at reception—while the swish boutique even features doggy bathrobes.  

The experiences that the Fife Arms offer are nothing short of spectacular, intrinsically tied to celebrating their unique terroir, so an unforgettable day started by visiting the majestic grounds, gardens and galleries of Balmoral Castle where King Charles II happened to be in residence. 

Andrew, a hugely knowledgeable naturalist and guide at The Fife Arms, known in Scotland as a ghillie, then led us on a country hike through wild swimming pools and waterfalls, pointing out the flora and fauna, before driving us (and Toffee) in a Land Rover high up in the remote hills. We passed King Charles’ favorite mushroom foraging spot, then finished with a picnic in a 400-year-old barn overlooking the dramatic, sweeping valley below, of extraordinary beauty. A tot of whisky warmed the bones and underlined how truly spiritual the whole experience was—in every sense of the word. 

A quick hop to the Royal Lochnagar Distillery was followed by dinner at The Fish Shop in the nearby village of Ballater, meaning more world-class Scottish seafood. Finally, to nightcaps—single malts, naturally—at the atmospheric Bertie’s Bar back at The Fife Arms, marking the perfect ending to the perfect day.  

BOOK YOUR STAY AT CRAIGELLACHIE HOTEL AND SPEYSIDE VIA BOOKING.COM

Lede and hero image courtesy of The Macallan Estate.

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